Monday, October 20, 2014

Is it safe?



Well, I am still in Central African Republic and am one of the 'oldies' now as it is coming up for two years and I still love it here! There are now over one hundred NGOs - non government organisations, in CAR compared to around thirty when I first arrived so the capital now has traffic jams and the supermarkets have run out of decent crisps, so it is not a completely positive change!

My last project finished at  the end of May 2014 and I am now working on a peace building/conflict resolution program which is quite topical if you follow the news. I have been a bit slack with my photo taking and there is sufficient coverage of the traumatic stuff going on here so we can skip that bit. I have included a few pics showing culture and work orientated subjects which you may find interesting

Until May I was based in Bouar - in the North West and whilst out walking one day, with my friend Louisa who is now my flat mate, we looked over a bridge. A very happy chappy had just finished his laundry next to the river and as you can see had laid it all out neatly to dry. All inside out of course so it doesn't fade. Washing machines haven't quite made it here yet.

Laundrette in Bouar
 Who says there is no culture in CAR? It was International Peace Day, so the local authority figures all over Bangui were invited to a day of dancing, music and a celebration of peace. Interestingly, the local MP equivalent - except she wasn't democratically elected, turned up. I haven't seen as much gold on a rap star as the amount she was wearing. Anyway, she was very generous with her cash and this young lady is wearing a huge smile as she had the equivalent of a $20 bill thrust down her bra as a gesture of appreciation for her dancing. Erm or was it a future vote generating attempt if the elections do take place next year?
Getting jiggy with it
 One of the rebel groups here is called the Anti Balaka - meaning anti machete. The women below are slightly fed up with the needless and mindless violence so have set up their own defence group - anti balay, meaning anti broom and their weapons of choice are surprisingly brooms It is nice to see some humour in a pretty stressful environment
Mums' Army

The population here takes religion very seriously. There are churches and catholic misions all over acting as hotels, refugee camps and the staff help consume the local brew. Somehow I have made a few friends amongst these pillars of the community and I was invited to an ordination of a young seminarist who was moving up the pearly ladder towards promotion. It is a good idea to keep on the right side of these folk as I am regularly told that we are saved on a daily basis through God's will. Nothing to lose I guess and they do throw a good party!

Praise Be!
I am often asked 'what is the night life like in CAR?'
It is very different between Bangui - the capital and the 'bush'. There are not many fridges in the bush but in the North West, beer is very kindly imported by the Cameroonian Army and sold on to us locals at a minimum margin. However, in the South East - the Congolese Army are far from home and allegedly smoke for their entertainment There is no beer except when the moon turns blue. Important to get this timing right when planning trips to the bush!
In Bangui, apart from the odd national shortage of tonic water, there is a good availability of beer, wine and occassionally champagne on a Sunday morning, if you know the right folk!
The guys below are celebrating my birthday - it wasn't a wild affair. From right, Ousmane, Bernard, Nicolas, Florence and some random interloper who I can't remember!! The cake in the middle really was delicious and was made by the Catholic sisters - remember the point about being in with the 'good' folk.


My Pals in Bouar
So what amazing present did I get for my birthday. All the shops in Bouar were looted, so sadly there were no saucepans or tins of sardines available. However Bernard and Nicolas did manage to find the cutest, loveliest little kitten ever. When I moved from Bouar to Bangui, she was given the choice to stay or move with me. She chose to secret herself into an ink cartridge box with holes poked in the side and smuggle herself onto a UN plan. Nothing to do with me.
Before Chatou arrived, we had a serious issue with rats. No problem, I bought rat poison and asked the cook to do the necessary. Can you believe he used my cheese that I had bought in Bangui and  saved for a special occasion to put the poison in? Since when do rats in the field develop a taste for cheese? There isn't even any for me. I was speechless to say the least, let alone cheeseless!


My new project is based in Bangassou, Bouar, Rafai and Bangui and I am lucky enough to live in a sweet little purple 'paillote' or house as we affectionatley call it, situated up a rocky path away from the main road. I am sharing with Louisa who I met last year in Bangui when she was a writer. The best thing about the house apart from obviously my house mate. is the view down the valley and if you squint a bit, the view across the river to Congo. One day whilst gently taking in the scenery from our terrace and caressing a cold beer, I noticed that the neighbours were doing a spot of DIY and painting the roof. It is a large fancy embassy building. I'm not really sure why I thought they would use safety gear - silly me. 
We have had our fair share of excitement in the purple paillote. We hace been visited by rats and mice, bats took up shelter and next door's guard goose has had a go at attacking me but probably the most exciting was 'snake gate'. Yes - you've got it. Two sightings of a black, dancng snake in our house! What a cheek. Get your own! Anyway, hopefully the petrol doused around the house and the insecticide liberally sprayed on the garden will maybe do the job. Anyone coming for a visit? We have a promising line in handbags nearly ready!

View from Our Purple Villa

After the stress of sourcing tonic water, finding cold beer and snake dodging, I am sent on rest and recuperatio every 10 weeks. The objective being to chill out and forget all about work. In July I went with Terri an American who I work with and Natalie, a Frenchie who works for Save the Chldren. We chose Morocco as it was one flight instead of the usual six and we went to Essaouira. a lovely walled city full of feline friends.
O
Aaaah

The town was old and we stayed in a lovely old restored riad and we all acted our ages

Dancing at Dusk

The beach had everything you could ask for - camel rides, galloping horses, kite surfing, football for the locals and quad biking if everything else was too energetic

What more could you ask for?


Back in Bangui, the furniture shps are now mobile and come to you. This innovative chap is selling bamboo tables
Anyone want a table?
In case you never noticed, I have never really followed fashion. I did however make an exception for National labour day. A particularly tasteful, yello, black and white material was selected and I was press ganged into having a lovely, african dress made and for my leaving do from Boaur we all wore our 'uniform'. It does nevertheless give you a sense of belonging even though I think I still stand out from the crowd!


Can you see me?
I am currently recovering from my latest R and R when I returend to the Uk for the first time after 2 years. I went to visit friends and family in Southport, Nelson, Manchester and Beverley and very little had changed apart from my reduced capacity for alcohol consumption! See below, the end of an evening in Salford Keys.
Hello to everyone at the Standard in Beverley - it was great to see you all. Thanks for lunch and dinners with Chris and Tony, Liz and Keith, John and Sally and Becky and Nick. I reckon I am 5 kilos heavier now!
Night of Debauchery

I managed to catch up with little sister who came over from Dubai and we went to visit Barabara and Liz and have a look round the farm. It has been some time since either of us were in the UK, so I think we can be forgiven for judging that the local sheep had recently been sheared and they looked very much like that new breed of  long necked sheep seen all over Lancashire and Yorkshire at the moment. Liz gently explained that they were not in fact sheep as we know them but alpacas! Doh!

Me and Sis
We managed a visit to see Garry's mum Pat who was on good form.
With Pat in Southport
This was another end of evening picture in Goodmanham with the Beverley crowd, where a good time was had by all at the expense of our pikey mates who just bought a caravan - ooops I mean a motor home!
Chilli In Goodmanham
Apologies to all those who I never managed to talk to properly and those I never managed to even see. Sorry folks. Will try harder next time and stop lounging around in the bath and on the settee. It was very relaxing and I am all ready to go back to whatever is waiting for me in CAR.

So yes, it is safe at the moment and we have good security procedures in place to avoid the wrog time and wrong place scenarios
Thanks for all your support and encouragement and I won't leave it so long next time. Promise!!

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