Monday, October 20, 2014

Is it safe?



Well, I am still in Central African Republic and am one of the 'oldies' now as it is coming up for two years and I still love it here! There are now over one hundred NGOs - non government organisations, in CAR compared to around thirty when I first arrived so the capital now has traffic jams and the supermarkets have run out of decent crisps, so it is not a completely positive change!

My last project finished at  the end of May 2014 and I am now working on a peace building/conflict resolution program which is quite topical if you follow the news. I have been a bit slack with my photo taking and there is sufficient coverage of the traumatic stuff going on here so we can skip that bit. I have included a few pics showing culture and work orientated subjects which you may find interesting

Until May I was based in Bouar - in the North West and whilst out walking one day, with my friend Louisa who is now my flat mate, we looked over a bridge. A very happy chappy had just finished his laundry next to the river and as you can see had laid it all out neatly to dry. All inside out of course so it doesn't fade. Washing machines haven't quite made it here yet.

Laundrette in Bouar
 Who says there is no culture in CAR? It was International Peace Day, so the local authority figures all over Bangui were invited to a day of dancing, music and a celebration of peace. Interestingly, the local MP equivalent - except she wasn't democratically elected, turned up. I haven't seen as much gold on a rap star as the amount she was wearing. Anyway, she was very generous with her cash and this young lady is wearing a huge smile as she had the equivalent of a $20 bill thrust down her bra as a gesture of appreciation for her dancing. Erm or was it a future vote generating attempt if the elections do take place next year?
Getting jiggy with it
 One of the rebel groups here is called the Anti Balaka - meaning anti machete. The women below are slightly fed up with the needless and mindless violence so have set up their own defence group - anti balay, meaning anti broom and their weapons of choice are surprisingly brooms It is nice to see some humour in a pretty stressful environment
Mums' Army

The population here takes religion very seriously. There are churches and catholic misions all over acting as hotels, refugee camps and the staff help consume the local brew. Somehow I have made a few friends amongst these pillars of the community and I was invited to an ordination of a young seminarist who was moving up the pearly ladder towards promotion. It is a good idea to keep on the right side of these folk as I am regularly told that we are saved on a daily basis through God's will. Nothing to lose I guess and they do throw a good party!

Praise Be!
I am often asked 'what is the night life like in CAR?'
It is very different between Bangui - the capital and the 'bush'. There are not many fridges in the bush but in the North West, beer is very kindly imported by the Cameroonian Army and sold on to us locals at a minimum margin. However, in the South East - the Congolese Army are far from home and allegedly smoke for their entertainment There is no beer except when the moon turns blue. Important to get this timing right when planning trips to the bush!
In Bangui, apart from the odd national shortage of tonic water, there is a good availability of beer, wine and occassionally champagne on a Sunday morning, if you know the right folk!
The guys below are celebrating my birthday - it wasn't a wild affair. From right, Ousmane, Bernard, Nicolas, Florence and some random interloper who I can't remember!! The cake in the middle really was delicious and was made by the Catholic sisters - remember the point about being in with the 'good' folk.


My Pals in Bouar
So what amazing present did I get for my birthday. All the shops in Bouar were looted, so sadly there were no saucepans or tins of sardines available. However Bernard and Nicolas did manage to find the cutest, loveliest little kitten ever. When I moved from Bouar to Bangui, she was given the choice to stay or move with me. She chose to secret herself into an ink cartridge box with holes poked in the side and smuggle herself onto a UN plan. Nothing to do with me.
Before Chatou arrived, we had a serious issue with rats. No problem, I bought rat poison and asked the cook to do the necessary. Can you believe he used my cheese that I had bought in Bangui and  saved for a special occasion to put the poison in? Since when do rats in the field develop a taste for cheese? There isn't even any for me. I was speechless to say the least, let alone cheeseless!


My new project is based in Bangassou, Bouar, Rafai and Bangui and I am lucky enough to live in a sweet little purple 'paillote' or house as we affectionatley call it, situated up a rocky path away from the main road. I am sharing with Louisa who I met last year in Bangui when she was a writer. The best thing about the house apart from obviously my house mate. is the view down the valley and if you squint a bit, the view across the river to Congo. One day whilst gently taking in the scenery from our terrace and caressing a cold beer, I noticed that the neighbours were doing a spot of DIY and painting the roof. It is a large fancy embassy building. I'm not really sure why I thought they would use safety gear - silly me. 
We have had our fair share of excitement in the purple paillote. We hace been visited by rats and mice, bats took up shelter and next door's guard goose has had a go at attacking me but probably the most exciting was 'snake gate'. Yes - you've got it. Two sightings of a black, dancng snake in our house! What a cheek. Get your own! Anyway, hopefully the petrol doused around the house and the insecticide liberally sprayed on the garden will maybe do the job. Anyone coming for a visit? We have a promising line in handbags nearly ready!

View from Our Purple Villa

After the stress of sourcing tonic water, finding cold beer and snake dodging, I am sent on rest and recuperatio every 10 weeks. The objective being to chill out and forget all about work. In July I went with Terri an American who I work with and Natalie, a Frenchie who works for Save the Chldren. We chose Morocco as it was one flight instead of the usual six and we went to Essaouira. a lovely walled city full of feline friends.
O
Aaaah

The town was old and we stayed in a lovely old restored riad and we all acted our ages

Dancing at Dusk

The beach had everything you could ask for - camel rides, galloping horses, kite surfing, football for the locals and quad biking if everything else was too energetic

What more could you ask for?


Back in Bangui, the furniture shps are now mobile and come to you. This innovative chap is selling bamboo tables
Anyone want a table?
In case you never noticed, I have never really followed fashion. I did however make an exception for National labour day. A particularly tasteful, yello, black and white material was selected and I was press ganged into having a lovely, african dress made and for my leaving do from Boaur we all wore our 'uniform'. It does nevertheless give you a sense of belonging even though I think I still stand out from the crowd!


Can you see me?
I am currently recovering from my latest R and R when I returend to the Uk for the first time after 2 years. I went to visit friends and family in Southport, Nelson, Manchester and Beverley and very little had changed apart from my reduced capacity for alcohol consumption! See below, the end of an evening in Salford Keys.
Hello to everyone at the Standard in Beverley - it was great to see you all. Thanks for lunch and dinners with Chris and Tony, Liz and Keith, John and Sally and Becky and Nick. I reckon I am 5 kilos heavier now!
Night of Debauchery

I managed to catch up with little sister who came over from Dubai and we went to visit Barabara and Liz and have a look round the farm. It has been some time since either of us were in the UK, so I think we can be forgiven for judging that the local sheep had recently been sheared and they looked very much like that new breed of  long necked sheep seen all over Lancashire and Yorkshire at the moment. Liz gently explained that they were not in fact sheep as we know them but alpacas! Doh!

Me and Sis
We managed a visit to see Garry's mum Pat who was on good form.
With Pat in Southport
This was another end of evening picture in Goodmanham with the Beverley crowd, where a good time was had by all at the expense of our pikey mates who just bought a caravan - ooops I mean a motor home!
Chilli In Goodmanham
Apologies to all those who I never managed to talk to properly and those I never managed to even see. Sorry folks. Will try harder next time and stop lounging around in the bath and on the settee. It was very relaxing and I am all ready to go back to whatever is waiting for me in CAR.

So yes, it is safe at the moment and we have good security procedures in place to avoid the wrog time and wrong place scenarios
Thanks for all your support and encouragement and I won't leave it so long next time. Promise!!

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

one year on


 Well time certainly flies by when you're having fun. I hadn't realised just how busy the last year has been until I look at a few of the things that I have been kept me occupied over the last year.
A year ago we had just experienced a coup by rebels called the Seleka and we were all evacuated out of Central African Republic over to Cameroun. We started back at work during the summer but were stopped now and again by security issues. I was based at Bangassou in the South East but unfortuantely 2 of my colleagues were shot so we transferred the project over to Bouar in the North West as it appeared to be quieter. As you would have guessed the troubles followed us to Bouar but we are operating at nearly full throttle so have made up some of the lost time. My colleagues are fully recovered and back at work!

 Below are a few of the hundreds of photos I have which hopefully you will find interesting

Tasty lizard
This creature was caught by the local restaurant and offered up on the following night's menu. Although it looks quite appetising, I haven't met anyone who sampled the delights!



Ahmed's Daughter
The food here in CAR leaves something to be desired - in the south east the diet consisted of green leaves boiled until tasteless along with plantain and bananas and mangos. If you like monkey, it can be arranged. The delicacies are the head and hands apparently. ANyway Ahmed is a lovely old Lebanese guy living in Bangassou. He has a shop and brings in treats like chick peas and lentils and I would join him for Sunday lunch which included chips every now and again. This is his gorgeous daughter enjoying having her photo taken by the strange white lady! 

Gender training in Bangassou
I have learnt a few things in the past year. This was a course on gender training and I am delighted to say I now know the difference between gender and sex - not that it has been particularly useful! This is Whitney, my old boss who I miss a lot now she is working in Haiti


Outside my room in Bangassou

After we were evacuated last year, the locals helped themselves to the contents of our offices and house so we moved to a "new hotel". Sadly the running water and electricity were not included in the rent agreement but the hotel did have very pretty flowers. 
New Year's Eve Dubai 2013
Needing a bit of a rest I popped over to Dubai to see Carolyn and Farhad. I tried to make up for 12 months lack of cheese consumption and managed to eat my body weight in crisps and as you can see we did a fair bit of partying.

Burj Khalifa Dubai
Dubai has lots to offer and so I popped along to the world's tallest building. Great views but no bungy jumping.
Typical Classroom in CAR

Back in CAR, due to the persistent security threats in the villages we were really surprised to find these children at school. Most of the schools have been shut down for the last year. One of our programs is to work with teachers and parent teacher associations to improve the level of teaching and to ensure that schools are maintained. We are building 4 schools in the North West and water points for the pupils

Seleka
These are Seleka rebels who took over the country in March 2013 and have now been virtually overthrown by the next set of rebels - the Anti Balaka.It is all very confusing because we also have African Union Armed Forces and French soldiers who all shop at the same store and look pretty similar to me. The easiest way to tell the difference is if they drive stolen cars then it is likely they are rebels. Our Mercy Corps vehicle was car jacked 2 weeks ago and the Anti Balaka stole money and phones from our staff. If it hadn't been for the fact that they wanted to "borrow" the vehicle to take their wounded to hospital we may well have lost our pick up too.

Child Protection training
Another of our programs is child protection and this was a training for local kids to explain to them and the local community about their rights to education, safety and health. 
Zanzibar July 2013
Withdrawal symptoms from lack of ocean meant Zanzibar was a perfect location for R and R.  What a great place it made to do my PADI diving certificate!
Security Training
As you can imagine there have been some hairy moments in CAR. I arrived when the country was classed as a family posting and I had had no security training. Using common sense to duck at appropriate moments was the limit to my security knowledge. Mercy Corps arranged a great training with an interesting ex ........ guy (can't tell you or I'd have to kill you) and we learnt some good techniques especially for carrying injured personnel, avoiding an ambush and fixing a punctured lung. I am also now able to tell the difference between shooting n the air and targetted firing. Not sure I will be putting it on my cv though.
Zanzibar July 2013


Cairo March 2014
No I don't spend all my time on holiday but they do make the best photo locations. Flying to Cyprus from CAR meant 5 different flights so we popped out of the airport whilst in Cairo to check out these. Very Impressive but makes me think of Toblerones
Displaced camp Bangui Airport
Flying out from Bangui airport back to Bouar I took this picture out of th window. Due to the Anti Balaka and Seleka clashes and retaliation attacks there have been up to 150,000 people in this one camp. Apparently the number has now dropped to 70.000 but as the rainy season starts the health threats become more serious - told you holiday pics were better!!
Anti Balaka soldier
I was at a food distribution one day and this Anti Balaka rebel was hanging around asking if he and his "soldiers" could have some food. Try saying no to someone like this but we have to!!
Refugees

This child and her family are part of the Muslim population who have had to flee the country due to revenge attacks by the new "Christian" rebels against the former "Muslim" rebels.
Prefect of Boaur
Being white and female I sometimes end up doing important jobs such as presenting the Bouar Prefect with his leaving present. He was an excellent leader for Bouar during the rebel conflict in January when I and the Mercy Corps team spent 2 weeks in hibernation and he has been promoted to be a minister in the new Government
Phikardou Cyprus

Peace and tranquility in sunny Cyprus. I visited with Terri a friend from Mercy Corps and met up with my sister. How embarrassed was I when Terri and I were having a quiet drink on the terrace and a load of explosions and shots were let off. We certainly jumped. Apparently it was military practice, road mining and a military exercise at sea.  

Cyprus

So the end of my latest holiday has arrived. We are now in Cameroun on the return leg to CAR. Apparently the curfew is now at 9pm - about 1 month ago it was 6pm so that is a big improvement.

I hope you have enjoyed the update and have a bit of an understanding of what I am doing here. remember I always want to hear news from you guys as well.
Next update won't be too long!