What's happening in Iraq?

Well, time is flying by and it's now the end of October with only 6 weeks left to go in this amazing country. Work goes on through its ups and down, mainly due to the areas we can and cannot access and then unexpected events taking place that are really difficult to predict. Since last writing, Mosul city has been liberated by the Iraqi and coalition forces so we started distributing cash to people who had fled their homes. Then the winter rains meant the bridges were unsafe to cross, so we had to cross by foot with a contingency to cross by boat if necessary. Crossing by foot meant provisions had to be carried across the bridges, so for the cafes selling kebabs and shawarma, 4 legged ingredients were brought in by wheelbarrow as shown below.

Take away or delivery?

Working in previously ISIS held territory meant we came across some of their devious military tricks and don't worry I don't meant their booby traps. There is a hill where you used to run to the top and make a wish and miraculously you were supposed to meet the love of your life in the following week. After ISIS occupation, the hill lost some of its allure, but instead you could explore the tunnels they have dug underground providing secret escape routes. After checking safety protocol after one of our distributions, the team explored the tunnels  and then ran up it just to see if the luck still applied. Sadly no distribution marriages have since followed.

Isis tinsel

 Distributions have entailed  early mornings and long days in up to 50 degrees C, so you will agree it's important to chill out now and again and look after the team spirit. This is an Arabic restaurant with carpeted walls, floors and tables where we treated ourselves after a busy week.

Mandi Restaurant Erbil

 When we first accessed Mosul, we worked in the East side whilst the West side was in the process of being liberated. It was quite noisy at times and the air smelled like bonfire night. There is massive amount of destruction but you've seen the pictures in the press so I'm not adding any here. Thankfully now the West is liberated too so work in Mosul is more peaceful

The view from the roof of our office across to West Mosul

Work wise, we have distributed cash and non - food items, such as blankets, cooking sets etc and we have separate lines for men and women. When we cross checkpoints, it is very ironic. It can sometimes take hours to cross so our team are charming towards the checkpoint soldiers and in the main we can push in at the front of the queue. How very un-British, I hear you cry. At distributions, however, we are so British. No pushing in, no shouting, take your turn and let through the elderly and disabled. My Iraqi team leader unfortunately does muddle some of his words sometimes and I was most concerned at one distribution when he ran off telling me he could hear shooting. Very alert and listening hard, I realised he meant shouting. What a relief!

No pushing please, we're British

 You will be pleased to know, it hasn't been all work and no play. We have R & R every 12 weeks and one of the nearest places to go used to be Lebanon (it hasn't moved but we now have to fly out of Kurdistan and into Iraq in order to leave the country - adding many hours to the journey). Lebanon has everything you could ask for, restaurants, culture, climate, sea and some things you don't, like a banging night life and traffic jams. After 3 months in a land locked country, it was bliss and so relaxing. Can't wait to go back sometime.

Tir in Lebanon

 You don't always need to leave Kurdistan to enjoy the outdoors. We went to Dohuk and found a trail to a local beauty spot. The mountains are snow capped for much of the year, so during the ridiculously hot summers the rivers are glacial and provide a great opportunity for cooling down. If you follow this irrigation channel for 20 minutes, balancing on the narrow wall on the left over a huge sheer drop or wade through the water, you end up at a turquoise pool filled with Iraqi men. Oh great. Then you walk, swim and climb up the river into smaller pools where there are fewer people. Rachel and I shared a lovely cup of chai made by some random lads who had their barbie and kettle over the charcoal in a tranquil pool up the river

Access to glacial pools and waterfalls

 So where is the romance in Erbil? Shannon, one of my housemates married her boyfriend here in Erbil. After months of chasing documents and unending bureaucratic checks, humiliation and disgust that as a woman you are only count as 1/2 a witness and if non Muslim, you don't count at all, eventually they got married. We celebrated in a lovely restaurant - the happy couple in the middle of the picture.

Shannon and Imad's wedding

 Prior to the Kurdish referendum, I went on another R & R, this time sailing in the Turkish Med. I know there are phones and internet in Turkey, but our beloved flotilla leaders took us to way- out places where the only access was by sea and not one ounce of retail therapy. Lovely clear, warm water for swimming and fresh fish. Great? Fabulous - except when you sail back into the real world and find out your flight is cancelled and you cannot get back to work. Terrible, I know. 
The Iraqi government had taken exception to the massive yes vote for a Kurdish independence and closed the Kurdish airport. This meant a detour via Baghdad and many many hours waiting to be processed.

Escapism

 Generally I don't do the other 5 o'clock on holidays, but I was told sunrise in this particular harbour was exceptional. 

Worth getting up for

So, not much longer to go for me here in Kurdistan with many issues to be resolved. Will the coalition forces succeed in ridding the country entirely of ISIS, will the Kurds and Iraqis stop their quibbling over Kurdish independence (what will happen in Catalonia too?). Will Iraq return to a country of middle income means?

It has been a great experience for me as the first time working in the Middle East. Would I do it again - certainly. Great people even under the worst circumstances.

That's all from me for now.

Hope you enjoy the read

Iraq and Kurdistan

So it has been a while and maybe you wondered what I was up to. After leaving Central African Republic, I returned to Cyprus for some well earned rest, a little sailing and swimming and readjustment to a peaceful routine. I realised I had forgotten how to cook for myself, so became well acquainted with the indian and seafood restaurants and local tavernas. My wine palate took some rehabilitation but I put in a lot of practice and gained 10 kgs.

However, I missed the humanitarian work and eventually found myself a cracking job in some place called Erbil. After checking wiki for average temperatures, I accepted the job and set off with my bikini, a couple of jumpers and some tee shirts. Sadly, although Erbil is south of Cyprus and north of Dubai, the climate is more like the Outer Hebrides. So a bit of a shock!







Anyway, Kurdistan is quite different from Iraq and nowhere near as much of a culture shock as I expected. I share a house in the Christian part of Erbil so no need for headscarves and alcohol is freely available. Yippee.
I found a few Christmas shops, see above and celebrated Christmas in Erbil, with a proper cooked Christmas dinner, thanks to some great colleagues.

I am working in distributions in areas recently recovered from ISIS some 75 kms from Erbil. I have been to the camps where there are displaced people, who have fled from the fighting and I am also working in towns. The people are incredibly hospitable and good to work with.
Also resilient and creative.Below is a gas powered bread maker which makes better bread than I do.



So you ask me, what are the shops like? Well, you can buy most things fresh. Lamb chops are particularly fresh, see below. Not sure the sheep in the picture has figured out his future!




So this is the team at work. Not the best ever picture, but distributing money in a half built house surrounded by a high wall to needy and vulnerable people.



The bridge in Qayyarrah was bombed by ISIS, see the gap in the middle of the bridge. Then as it was being repaired, the Americans sent another bomb to stop ISIS from using in during the period that they controlled the city. You may be able to see the repair truck that was caught in the middle. Pleased I wasn't the driver.




When ISIS fled, they set fire to the oil fields in this area, which are still burning now. The town is permanently covered by thick black smoke as no-one has put out the fires yet. The sheep are all black except for the little white lambs. These are two of my colleagues after a day in the field




A friend came to see me so I thought we should make the most of the opportunity to see the glorious Korek mountain at its best. In the summer, the Kurdish people travel north to the mountains where it is beautiful and cooler. I know, i'm already cold and I travel to where it's even colder. Anyway, we drove a couple of hours through spectacular scenery, pushed to the front of the cable car queue (it's obligatory over here) and went to the top of the mountain with my borrowed gloves and hat and all my jumpers. It was absolutely lovely and the accommodation had 3 types of heating - all on maximum of course. Well worth the trip and I will be going again in the summer, with my bikini of course.

 Having received a significant amount of safety training in my new career, I am always on the look out for potential dangers. Dodging snow falls and icicles off roofs is a new risk I had not expected.

Snow Angels in Iraq - who would have thought?

There was time for a spot of culture after the mountain trip. In the centre of Erbil, is an amazing citadel. Huge and in great restoration shape. Our super sweet taxi driver's dad owned the textile museum in the citadel, so we had a personalised tour and nearly had to buy a rug. These are traditional caps worn by different tribes in Kurdistan. For those of you who know of Ken Dodd, he would have a field day
i

So what's the food like you ask? Well, put simply. great. Lots of sheep and chicken, vegetables, nuts, dates, fruit, Lebanese, Turkish, Cypriot type food and fairly healthy. If you have a sweet tooth, I suspect you would be in heaven - see below.

Erbil Citadel and the bazaar- impressive hey?

Lastly, me after a very long day in the field but things are looking up, only a 4 jumper day and the sun is coming.

So that's all from me for now. I am a bit limited with photos as there are military personnel and checkpoints everywhere and they are not over keen on me taking pictures.
Would love to hear from you all and why not come over for a visit. It is actually great here.